African Journal #9: Hot Nights in Abuja

April 21, 2008

Sweating It Out

Oh, how great it is to be a VSO volunteer. The perks are countless – making good friends with other volunteers, staying at the spankin’ VSO flat in Abuja, and the excellent networking opportunities that arise as a volunteer. All of that occurred while I was in the capital city for the long weekend during my travels in the Southern states while I take my three-week vacation from the school in Kebbi State.

Helen and I left Akwanga to go to Abuja in the public transport, we paid 300 Naira ($2.50 USD) for a two hour trip cramped in the back of a small car with four people in the back! But the upside was it wasn’t so uncomfortable because I had shed some pounds and was able to fit unlike when I first came to Nigeria. Helen and I went to Abuja earlier on Wednesday so we would attend an educational forum hosted by the Civil Society Action Coalition on Education for All (CSACEFA) on Thursday to partake in a roundtable discussion on a variety of topics covering education for all Nigerians who are HIV positive, women and girls, have special needs, impoverished and so on. A lot of important people attended this meeting and as luck would have it, VSO hired a sign language interpreter named Timothy, whom I had met in Jos earlier in March. The meeting was a very long and daunting one, and it didn’t help that I had to tactile on Timothy’s hand with my sore, dislocated shoulder so I had to take 10-15 minute intervals in between. It was a challenge trying to understand Timothy’s SEE (Signed Exact English) and it was an even more of a challenge having to sign SEE for Timothy to interpret while I spoke on the topic of providing education to all Deaf Nigerians on HIV and AIDS and how the government needs to establish formal interpreting agencies and fund them, as well as the topic on education for Deaf Blind children all over the country because currently no such classes for DB children exist. I got a round of applause from the roundtable (50-60 people attended). I sure wasn’t used to having to sign each word rather than expressing my thoughts naturally through ASL. Timothy had a Deaf brother who was a former president of the Nigerian Association for the Deaf until his death from malaria several years ago. Timothy had a passion for working with Deaf people through his brother, and wanted to find out how he could establish Nigeria’s first interpreting agency and encourage the government to fund it, as well as asking universities to bring into the curriculum ASL classes and advanced interpreting courses. He is truly motivated and that was duly noted when Timothy asked me what the ASL sign for this and that was – it was a learning experience for the both of us. It was a strange experience having a Nigerian interpret for me rather than what I was used to, with Zach and Erin, with any of my North American interpreters – and not being able to sign naturally in ASL. But this is a cultural experience and I embrace it.

The long day in itself wasn’t the only pain in the ass, literally! I had tummy aches all day and had to go back and forth to the bathroom to take a real long good shit. I cannot believe how much I had discharged from my body, and even more so how good it smelled. Ahh. But having to shit five times during the day was draining for me, physically – I felt so tired from withdrawal of so many solids and fluids that I had passed on going out with the girls to a bush bar on Friday night because during Thursday night, I had commuted to the loo a total of SIX times to relieve all the water stored in my body… I didn’t catch any good winks so it had taken its toll on me on Friday and I just crashed. The girls went out while I just chilled at the flat and made several vlogs with and without NEPA (electricity). The mossies (mosquitoes) were equally terrible, they swarmed the flat because it was a great place to chill, too, away from the pouring rain and the humidity of Abuja. NEPA had gone out just before I hit the sack, so for the third night in a row, I lay on my back in a puddle of sweat but knocked out easily because I was just simply so tired.

Saturday was a new day, and Coco was energized to the max! I was feeling so much better and the girls and I set off for some chicken shawarma at Amigo’s Lebanese restaurant for lunch then hit the Dutch Embassy to browse their weekend festival. I could not believe how many Bature (white) people were there – most of them expatriates who moved to Nigeria to reside – and some were volunteers for different organizations, namely VSO. I bought some beautiful purple tye-dye fabric from Elly and Mart, two VSO vols working in Edo State; a black/white beaded necklace from Mary who worked at a service for the handicapped in Kubwa (outside Abuja); four ceramic shooters to bring home for guests to indulge; and a cool Nigerian necklace. The art displayed was so amazing but way out of my budget limit. I earn 30,000 Naira ($250 USD) every month as a volunteer and it allows me to buy food, drinks, some travel expenses, a personal trainer and some fabric to boot – so with that salary I was living comfortably but no room to save up and buy insane amounts of art. Maybe at the end of my volunteer stint I’ll be able to bring tons of African art home – wherever that is when I’m finished here.

Saturday – Aine, Helen, Jane, Thessa, Kristal, Ilse, Mart, Elly, Julia & Dee (vol for different org from Ireland) and I indulged in some din-din at Thessa’s new crib, then some of us hightailed it to the Crystal Lounge, a cool club where the kids of senators, distinguished officials, and rich parents liked to schmooze. When we got to the club, the bouncer grabbed my cane and gave me a weird look. He thought it was a WEAPON!!!! Jane explained that I was blind and it was a cane so I could walk around safely and not injure myself. He was apologetic, and lifted my arm to go up the stairs. Clueless fella!
I wasn’t in the mood to drink but had a Smirnoff Ice and chilled while the other girls danced their booties off. Jane, an amazing friend, has learned how to fingerspell and has already picked up more than 50 signs in one week (quite a perceptive gal) and was able to “interpret” the hilarious but long conversation between me and X, a guy who thought I was the most beautiful angel alive. He asked me my name and I replied: Y. He wanted to be my slave, but I basically told him to kiss my ass. It was fun until he just wouldn’t let go and kept pestering me for my phone number and wanted to take me home – I kept hinting for him to just go. I’m a good, old-fashioned gal, I don’t like taking boys home after a wild night!
I’m usually always up for dancing all night til dawn, but this was different – I felt more mellow, and wanted to chill at home watching a movie with a cutie and eating popcorn instead. No, it ain’t age, just the mood of the day. I know my girls had tons of fun, we all looked muy caliente!

Jane, Helen and I – the Akwanga Amigas – went back to Akwanga on Sunday. I’m gonna stay here for a few more days til I’m off to Jos to meet up with the Deaf community and facilitate a meeting with them – as well as participating in a meeting with Nigerian interpreters on Saturday, courtesy of Timothy. Definitely looking forward to that!

NEPA keeps coming on and off and on and off… I’m so used to these shut-offs now, but I recall when I got into Nigeria I was so impatient and cursed every time it went off. Now I just kill time by doing my journals while the electricity’s left the building and do as much as I can while it’s on. Internet is so slow here, I’m not able to download videos nor pictures by the bundle – so I’ll venture to the British Consulate next week when I’m back in Abuja, so m’dearies, have patience.

Thank goodness it’s so much cooler here in Akwanga. The heat and humidity of Abuja was a little too much for me to handle. Light breezes through the windows is a comforting feeling.

Tactile love,
Coco

African Journal #8: The Amigas of Akwanga

April 16, 2008

The Circle of Friendship

When the sun set on Sunday evening, Zach and I were in the company of several volunteers and friends chowing on delicious spicy tilapia fish, cooked right off the outdoor grill and downed several Star beers at the Abuja Military Market. If visitors come to town, I’ll be sure to take them to this wonderful place situated outside of Abuja near the valleys. In a sense, it was Zach’s goodbye party, and we all gathered for some fun and music. There was even a folk singer that sung one of John Denver’s songs – something about The Road to Home. Fitting for a send-off for Zach, who after six weeks departs in several hours for America – the country he calls home. Burning the midnight oil, Zach and I had a great conversation and a bittersweet goodbye, then we went to bed and with the breaking dawn I bid Zach adieu.

Once he left the VSO flat, I sat on the couch in shock. I was truly on my own now. Despite the measures VSO has taken to ensure I am well looked after with an alternate intervenor waiting for me in Birnin Kebbi upon my return, it does not assuage my sadness over Zach and Erin’s departure. Zach’s presence in itself over the six weeks had truly impacted me on a spiritual and emotional level, he’s become a special friend and confidante. We’d gone through so much the past three weeks after Erin left – and bonded even more so. Now that he’s gone, I had to face the daunting task of moving on with my life and focusing on my upcoming travels and working solo in Birnin-Kebbi. Granted, Erin and Zach had helped my transition into Nigeria more smoother and increased my ability to be independent with networking and environmental information – but without them, I think I can take it from here and face challenges everyday and learn lessons from it.

After such an emotional day, I met up with Jane and Helen, two volunteers situated in Akwanga, 2 hours east of Abuja, at the flat and we set out to have some chop (food) at this delicious Lebanese place called AJ’s – absolutely heavenly. I had the most delicious chicken salad with chips – definitely a place I’ll return to when I’m ever in Abuja.

Abuja is the capital city of Nigeria established only recently, close to 10 years old. Lagos, the port city in the South, used to be the capital city but the population grew past 10 million people and the government decided Nigeria needed a new capital city where tourists, politicians and expatriates would come and live in luxury. Buildings, shops, restaurants and clubs were upscale, it was in stark contrast to the shantytowns, tin houses and huts of villages outside Abuja.

After a refreshing visit to the VSO Nigeria Programme Office, I felt rejuvenated with all the words of encouragement and support from the office staff and set off to the Nya Nya motorpark with Jane and Helen. We found a car and we sped off to Akwanga where I would chill with my amigas for several days before returning to Abuja for an education forum with VSO.

Jane Brinson is a cool, collected Brit from Cardiff who was my In Country Training Program co-ordinator. She’s younger than me, but there’s an old soul inside of her. We hit it off during ICT and Jane’s been eager about learning sign language and understanding the wackiness that I always seem to embody. We’ve become instant close friends, and I consider her my lifelong pal – she’s so empathetic about my blindness and has been extraordinary about paying attention to details on how to guide me, communicating and listening.

Helen is one crazy, sweet, spiritual chica from Ireland whom I had met in Jos in the beginning of March for a PATCH meeting where all the VSO volunteers in Nigeria met up twice a year. Someone told me that Helen’s laughter was pretty loud, so I had to see for myself who this cool chica was. She and I bonded over our naughtiness and our philosophy on life, love and spirituality. Helen has studied the art of Raiki, a healing massage practice and has done one on me – it has influenced me to want to learn more about the art of healing, homeopathy and spiritual guidance. Helen and I also bonded over our dismal love lives, and we know that we are two incredibly strong and beautiful women who have waited so long to find the right kind of love – and we vowed we would eventually find it one day.

Last night, Jane invited Helen over for dinner at her flat, we had delicious carrot ginger soup and fresh salad – and great conversations on MS Word on my laptop. Makes for faster communication with hearing people!

Zach is a genius. He downloaded some of his African beat CDs on my laptop and it was perfect timing so I turned up the volume and Helen, Jane and I just danced and danced and danced in the living room, working up a sweat and burned thousands of calories! The light, cool breeze of Akwanga swept in the room and our bodies were in tune with the air and the music.

Now I’m at the College of Education in Akwanga, where vols Helen, Jane and David work – trying to grab as much time on the snail-like internet while NEPA’s still whirring…. Oh no. It just went out. Guess I’m going to have to wait a while until it comes back on to post this entry. Unpredictable! Makes me think about the times I wasted electricity unnecessarily back home in America or the times when I really needed it, it was there all the time. Now I’m playing it by electricity, but good thing my life doesn’t revolve around electricity. Internet runs on electricity but it can wait. This has taught me how to be extra patient and find other fun ways to kill time… such as doing this journal entry.

I’m off to cheer up my Akwanga amigas. They’re too precious for words. I’m blessed, really. Friendships that I have formed while here in Nigeria with volunteers, the communities and of course my lovely Erin and Zach – truly make my heart fill up with happiness and comfort. I don’t need material things – jewelery, clothes, money, luxury to get me through life, just my circle of friends and my sanity as well as my health is my luxury in life. See, this shopaholic has turned over a new leaf. Nigeria is truly life-changing. You should try worldwide volunteer work. Rewards are plentiful.

Tactile love, amigos y amigas.
Coco

African Journal #7: The Jewel of Guaro Falls

April 12, 2008

Life Is Best Viewed on a Mountaintop

Watermelons, pasta, mangoes, pineapple and cornflakes made up for our breakfast portion of the day. The volunteers gathered their hiking bags, swimming suits, and plenty of water bottles and sunscreen protection. We set off for our day at Guaro Falls, an hour east of Minna where we would spend the day basking in the sun and swimming in the river at the bottom of the falls. However, I was warned by Aine that the area had a very steep descent and was concerned that I would not be able to make it to the bottom safely due to my terrible balance, vision and sore shoulder. In case it imposed too much of a challenge for me, Zach was willing to stay behind and enjoy the afternoon under a hut overlooking the falls.

When we got to the Guaro Falls Reserve, we met up with Julia, a British volunteer from Jos and took several scenic photos from the top of the incredibly beautiful waterfalls. We set off for the hill, and we all were pleased to see that the reserve park had added concrete steps leading to the pebble beach at the bottom, however, the steps were not smooth and had a lot of cracks and missing pieces. Zach and I looked at each other and proposed that we do this challenge – he would help me every step of the way, pun intended! My heart was racing like mad, but the euphoria was a great motivator and down we went! It was a little hard on the eyes, I had to focus on finding a flat surface so I could place my foot on and tread slowly. My cane helped a lot, it served as a balancing tool. After maybe 20 minutes, Zach and I joined the other volunteers who gave us a high five! We were able to join them for a swim.

The water was so refreshingly cool in contrast to the humid weather. The current from the waterfall almost swept me away but Zach hurried and grabbed my hand before it was too late – lesson learned, I started holding on to rocks underneath for support. More volunteers came – Liz, her husband, Jane and her boyfriend and several of Liz’s international neighbours. Two of them were Canadians, from Toronto!

We endured another challenging trip alongside the riverbank through huge rocks and crevices but I was determined to make it to the foot of the falls where Liz’s friends would cook us a delicious feast over open fire. I could smell chicken cooking and saw a feast of mango crumble, French bread, sausages, pasta salads… it was heaven. We drank Star beer, basked in the sun some more, did some more swimming and Zach got stung by something – a bee?

Later on in the afternoon, people started leaving to go back to Minna or Abuja. Zach wasn’t feeling right in the stomach and suffered the stinky consequences, and I started feeling very faint. I had to lie down, with my head spinning and buckets of sweat rolling down my head. It was such an uncomfortable experience for both of us and it brought up some concerns, how would we be able to make it all the way down the shore again then up the hill again? I was so sure I would fall and hurt myself and Zach was feeling weak as well. But we shot that “let’s do it” look again, and we decided to take it slowly. Andrew, Jane’s boyfriend, volunteered to take my bag and be the cameraman. He followed us, took awesome pictures and even made some videos of Zach guiding me up the jagged and rugged steps. It’s all recorded!

The trip up the hill was one of the most trying experiences of my life. I was weak and lightheaded and had to stop occasionally for a breath of air and drink some water. But within an hour, we were finally making our way to the very top… and when we did, it was such a LIBERATING feeling….. I gave a loud Rocky-style shout at the top of the hills facing the stunning view of the forested area surrounding the falls. I’m DEAF BLIND and I did this!!!!!!! Zach was incredible through this whole experience, he was assuring me of every turn, every step, every rock…. He empowered me to do something I never thought I would succeed at – for that I’m forever grateful.

The trip ended with a beautiful, brisk drive facing the sunset to the West when we drove back to Minna with Julia, Andrew, Jane and Zach.

The rest of the volunteers were thrilled to see us again, and the most fun night of our volunteer experience started… it was a raunchy, naughty, hilarious and exciting evening with many themes associated with Passion – all thanks to our wildly funny Irish vol-pal, Helen. I think I should keep most of the details to myself and other vols as children could read this blog… so sorry for the censorship!

Off to Abuja tomorrow. And one more day until dear Zach departs the country of Unity, Naija.

Be sure to challenge yourself. I mean, really surrender to your fears and climb the highest mountain – it’s such a great feeling, something that everyone should at least feel before their lives wind down to nothing but ashes.

I am living life to its fullest.

Tactile love,
Coco

African Journal #6: The Road To Minna

April 11, 2008

Katati Lahira: Go To Hell, Driver!

School’s out! Vacation started for everyone who works at the Kebbi School for the Handicapped, thus beginning a three week journey to the Southern States surrounding Abuja for me. My plan was to take the public transportation to Minna, a city in the Niger State and visit a departing VSO volunteer, Aine, and celebrate her end of stay in Nigeria. Zach would accompany me during the weekend and then we would be off to Abuja to bid him goodbye when he leaves on Monday for the States.

Zach and I woke up pretty early Friday morning, what a mess it was – we packed, cleaned, made sure all windows and doors were shut before we left an hour late for the motor park. Once we got there, we found a station wagon that would take us to Minna. We weren’t confident that this beat up station wagon would survive the five-hour trip South, but thought we’d practice on our praying. Zach and I bought the back row (3 seats for the price of 6.600 Naira (55 dollars total) – a bit steep but it was better than having our faces be pressed against the window for the entire trip down. We then set off for what would seem like the longest trip we’d ever taken in Nigeria thus far.

One hour and half in, the driver ventured around several gas stations looking for the cheapest diesel, but he gave up and continued driving. Then, bam, in the middle of the hot desert with sizzling temperatures to 45 Celsius and 110 degrees Farenheit, the car sputtered … and broke down! The idiot driver didn’t fill up on gas so the car ran on empty quite dangerously and gave up. It was just so uncomfortably hot, Zach got out of the car for some air and tried calling VSO on the cellphone but there wasn’t any signal. The driver hailed a kabo-kabo (motorcycle) and left us – we assumed he was going to the nearest town to get a mechanic. Nearly three hours later, the driver came back to find two of his passengers left, and the remaining disoriented and thirsty for water. We were all trying to avoid the direct sun and drink water sparsely, who knew when the driver would come back? The men worked on the engines for a while before we were able to get it started and we started off for Yauri, the nearest town.

We weren’t quite on our way to Minna, because the driver said that his car was in no condition to make the rest of the trip to Niger State, so we had to stay in the shade, drink more water and wait for our next ride. Finally, an hour later, another station wagon arrived and we were on our way late in the afternoon. Zach and I were supposed to arrive in Minna around 1-2pm but we ended up in the city around 7pm when it was getting dark. What was supposed to be a five hour trip turned into a ten hour trip down the road of hell. I muttered ‘katati lahira’ – hausa for Go To Hell – to the driver several times during the road trip. It sure felt that way!

We were greeted by Aine and guided to her house on the campus of the Government Secondary School where she was a volunteer. Her house was pitch black, the electricity (NEPA) had gone out, so there was candles on the table when we got in the living room. It was so good to see the other volunteers – Thessa, Helen, Glenn, Kristal and Aine. We were all pretty worn out from a long day of travel so we hit the sack early – for our long day at the Guaro Falls Reserve Park and for an evening of fun hosted by Helen with an Ann Sommers theme – think Passion Party!

I’m so glad to be safe in Minna. And amongst good friends and good times. But it’s starting to hit me – Zach is leaving in two days, and Erin is long gone. Some of you asked who Erin was – she was the other half of the intervenor team that accompanied me to Nigeria on March 1st – and interpreted my training courses and came to Birnin Kebbi for a week. Her stay was three weeks long, and she departed on March 22nd to return to the States. She is sorely missed.

Off to Guaro Falls! More adventure stories to come.
Tactile love,
Coco